九月
September in Japan
The gamble month, and usually a good one. Summer fades, crowds thin, prices drop, and most typhoons miss most places.
Weather
Warm and gradually drier: Tokyo 21-28°C. Typhoons are possible, especially south; plans need one flexible day.
What's on
Red spider lilies line rice fields around the equinox. Moon-viewing, tsukimi, puts dango in the shops.
Where to go
Kyoto without queues, Naoshima's art islands, Fushimi Inari at dawn with the paths to yourself.
On the table
Sanma grilled with salt, the first new rice, matsutake if you're feeling rich.
